Daily Photography Tips

Nikon Flash

How To Avoid “Deer In The Headlight” Lighting With Your On-Camera Flash

This post is written by Guest Contributor, Janet Ochs Lowenbach. If you are also interested in writing a guest blog, please reach out using the form in the Contact page.

There are lots of names for what an on-camera flash does to a subject:  Flash in the pan.  Powder in the face.  Deer in the headlights. They all mean the same thing, according to Duane Heaton, Sales Manager of Penn Camera in Rockville Pike, MD. “A small, on-camera flash provides very stark lighting conditions with harsh shadows, and it is very limited in the quality of lighting it provides; sometimes when the flash is so close to the lens, it produces red eye. Using an off-camera flash allows you to be more creative.”

Further, because of the digital camera’s inability to see a wide exposure latitude, you want to use a diffused flash (off camera) as much as possible to fill in the extremes of exposure. (To explain this example, film has an exposure latitude of 1:7, while digital cameras have an exposure latitude of 1:4.)

“When you add a second or even third light off the camera, you soften the light and the shadows, and minimize the extremes of exposure.” Heaton adds. “They give very directional light as well as energy to the scene.”

Nikon SB-900

Nikon SB-900

Placement of the off-camera flash depends on what effects you want to achieve. A nice portrait effect results from placing the off-camera light 45 degrees from the subject, where it produces that classic upside-down triangle on the cheek when the subject is looking at you.

Heaton says there is no single brand flash that is better than another. “Canon, Olympus, and Nikon flashes are all good and each is synchronized with its own brand of cameras. Nikon and Canon have been industry leaders for years because of the sheer size of their companies, and now Sony is getting it to the mix,” he adds.

You can use a flash that is wired to the camera, but with the latest technology, you can use a remote, either a generic radio remote or a wireless one specifically designed for working with your flash. Each of these will permit you to place your flash away from the camera and give you more flexibility.

The radio remote works up to a distance of 400 feet, but requires you to adjust the flash manually. A wireless system permits you to control each flash through the unit, with a TTL system that lets you make adjustments from the unit, without moving to it.

The key to the flexibility is, Heaton says, the fact that, “The popular pop-up flash can be used as a command flash that controls the off-camera flash or flashes. The pop-up can take on many different roles including acting as a fill or being solely in the commander mode with no effect on exposure.”

Heaton says you can use more than one off camera flash as long as you know how to control the light and the camera settings so that the camera and the flash talk to each other.

“The system is proprietary, or a closed loop, says Heaton.  So, you have to use Nikon flashes with a Nikon camera, a Canon flash with a Canon camera, etc.

Perhaps the hardest part of using flash in the TTP mode is the manual. You have to learn how to make the camera and the flashes talk to each other, but since the manuals are translated from the Japanese, they are often difficult to follow.  “Nikons are menu driven and very intricate; you have to know what button to push and this is hard to translate in a manual from the Japanese. There is an even greater problem with digital cameras.”

Heaton and his colleague at Penn give hands-on training in flash use. He also says there are many opportunities outside the store for classes and one-on-one training. The problems with manuals, he says has expanded the opportunities for teaching and education.

Nikon CLS Vs PocketWizard

There are two ways to control the remote flash units from your camera. One is using wired connection (using Nikon 4765 SC-28 for example) between the camera and the flash units and other one is wireless method to communicate between the camera and the flash unit. With the increase popularity of wireless technology, wired technology are rarely used these days. Also, wired technology is limited with the distance if you want to experiment with the distance and the angle of the flash units. In addition to that we have got lots of choices with wireless technology and can choose one of the many options available in the market. You just have to decide what you want to do and what you want to achieve and get the kind of device that works best for you. In today's post, we are going to talk about two wireless technologies which are dominantly popular and they are Nikon CLS (Creative Lighting System) and PocketWizard. Let's discuss what are the benefits of using one to another.

Nikon CLS Vs PocketWizard

There are some photographers who think CLS Vs PocketWizard is like Nikon Vs Cannon debate and they have their own arguments about these two devices. I am not thinking of taking side of any technology or equipment and will try to describe these technologies by doing simple comparison with different perspectives and it’s up to you to decide which technology works best for you.

Nikon SB-800

Nikon SB-800

1. Equipment cost

As of today, if you want to buy the complete set (FlexTT5, MiniTT1 and 804-709 AC3 Zone Controller) of PocketWizard to seamlessly control your flash units remotely, it costs around $497.00 on Amazon. And if you want to buy the Nikon flash units with CLS technology, SB-600 costs you around $320.00 and SB-900 costs you around $499.00. You do not have to buy a transmitter for SB-600 or SB-900 to work if your camera has a commander mode. Your camera's built-in flash can act as a transmitter when it is set to commander mode.

That means you will be spending extra money on PW if you already have the camera capable of controlling the CLS flash units remotely. But that investment worth every penny if you need an extra feature like extra distance range between the flash units and the camera or working in various angles which we will discuss next.

PocketWizard

PocketWizard

2. Working Range

If you plan not to put your flash units farther than 30 feet from your camera (adjusting angle to reach an infrared signal from the camera), it would be a wise decision not to invest money on PW. But if you are planning to play with different angle of lights and place the flash units farther than 30 feet, PW is the way to go. It gives solid control over the great distance. When used as a transmitter, the FlexTT5 can provide TTL auto flash at distances of up to 800 feet and conventional triggering up to 1200 feet with the aid of a flip-up antenna.

3. Control

Nikon CLS system has a limitation of distance but you can control the remote flash units from the camera whereas today’s PW can go up to 800 feet and works great with an auto FP high speed sync and iTTL mode. Nikon CLS systems are an infrared system and that is the reason many photographers argue that it doesn’t work if the unit falls into the direct sun light. Nikon CLS system works great if the distance and the working angle matches with the camera (line-of-sight) from where it transmits an infrared signal to the remote flash units. But PW works on radio signal and can reach up to 1600 feet.

Nikon CLS systems and PW both work great in an auto FP high speed sync mode and supports iTTL mode. So it is just a matter of the distance and the working angle whether you want to use the CLS technology or buy the PW system.

4. Compatibility

Nikon CLS system only works with the Nikon’s compatible flash units whereas PW works with any kind of system. If you have any flash units other than the Nikon, you can use PW to communicate between your Nikon body and the third party flash unit. All you have to do is, slide MiniTT1 into the hot shoe of the camera and slide your flash units into the hot shoe of FlexTT5. It is very reliable piece of technology and works great.

Note: Nikon CLS is not a device but technology built inside Nikon's advanced flash units like SB-600, SB-700, SB-800 and SB-900 which is used to communicate between the Nikon camera and the flash units.

Camera Exposure Compensation Vs Flash Exposure Compensation

Today, I am going to talk about two different types of exposure compensations; camera exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation. They both are different and work differently to some extent but not always (depending on what camera body you are using). When I was learning about flash photography, I found this topic little difficult and confusing to understand but I will try to explain it as clear as I can. Let's talk about them briefly one by one and see how does it work differently in different camera bodies.

Camera exposure compensation: Camera exposure is set on the camera body and affects both ambient and flash exposure for Nikon; but only ambient exposure for Canon cameras.

Flash exposure compensation: Flash exposure is set on the flash unit itself. Flash exposure compensation affects flash output only. Changing the flash exposure doesn’t affect ambient exposure.

Nikon Vs Canon (Exposure compensation)

Nikon camera allows you to change the exposure compensation which sets the overall exposure (flash and ambient exposure) even if you are in a Manual mode. But in Canon camera, you can’t dial exposure compensation in a Manual mode.

With Nikon, the camera exposure compensation for the ambient light and the flash exposure compensation are cumulative when ambient light is low and flash is using as the main source of the light. For example, if the camera exposure compensation is set to +2.0 EV and the flash is set to -2.0 EV, it would cancel each other resulting 0.0 EV for the overall exposure compensation.

But when the ambient light is strong and you are using the flash as a fill light, camera sync speed (using Auto FP High speed sync decreases the power of the flash output) and apertures and other settings come into play to determine the overall exposure with the combination of the flash exposure and the camera exposure compensation.

But with Canon, flash exposure compensation and the camera exposure compensation aren’t linked together, as they are with Nikon. So with Canon, in a Manual exposure mode, you can only set the flash exposure compensation which doesn’t affect the ambient exposure.

Why do we need exposure compensation?

Camera metering sensor tries to map everything inside the frame (provided your metering system is in the Matrix metering mode) into 18% middle gray. If your subject is white with the white background, camera auto metering system tries to map it to 18% gray and the result will be underexposed. Similarly if your subject is dark around the dark background, metering system gets confused by the dark tonal color and tries to convert everything into 18% middle gray and hence you will get overexposed subject. To balance the color tones in these kind of scenario, you have to use the exposure compensation to tell the camera “Do whatever you think is right and add or subtract extra light to adjust the subject tonal color to get the perfect color tone mapping”.

How does exposure compensation work?

When you are in an Auto Exposure mode or semi-auto Exposure mode like Shutter Priority mode (S) or Aperture Priority mode (A), dialing the exposure compensation tries to adjust the color tone by adjusting the Shutter speed or an Aperture depending up on which mode you are currently in. If you are using an Aperture Priority mode, changing the exposure compensation adjusts the Shutter speed to balance the overall exposure, and if you are using the Shutter Priority mode, exposure compensation changes an aperture value to adjust the exposure.

To support my explanation, I have included few photographs I have taken (using Nikon D90+SB-600) during my experiment. All these photographs were hand-held shot and taken in a Manual mode using front curtain flash. You will see blurred words due to camera shake but it has nothing to do with today’s experiment and it's finding. All of these photographs were taken using same aperture value, shutter speed, ISO and focal length and the values are:

Shutter speed : 1/4     Aperture : f5     ISO : 200    Focal length : 70mm

#1 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure 0 and No flash unit attached)

Camera Exposure Compensation 0 and No flash attached

Camera Exposure Compensation 0 and No flash attached

#2 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure -2 and No flash unit attached)

Camera Exposure Compensation -2 and No flash attached

Camera Exposure Compensation -2 and No flash attached

#3 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure +2 and No flash unit attached)

Camera Exposure Compensation +2 and No flash attached

Camera Exposure Compensation +2 and No flash attached

#4 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure 0 and flash exposure compensation -2)

Camera Exposure Compensation 0 and FEC -2

Camera Exposure Compensation 0 and FEC -2

#5 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure 0 and flash exposure compensation 0)

Camera exposure compensation 0 and FEC 0

Camera exposure compensation 0 and FEC 0

#6 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure 0 and flash exposure compensation +2)

Camera exposure Compensation 0 and FEC +2

Camera exposure Compensation 0 and FEC +2

#7 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure -2 and flash exposure compensation +2)

Camera exposure Compensation -2 and FEC +2

Camera exposure Compensation -2 and FEC +2

#8 Manual Mode (Camera Exposure +2 and flash exposure compensation -2)

Camera exposure Compensation +2 and FEC -2

Camera exposure Compensation +2 and FEC -2

If you look at the picture #1, #2 and #3 closely, you will hardly find any lighting difference and the exposure even though I told camera to set 0 EV, -2 EV and +2EV camera exposure simultaneously with no flash unit attached. And in other pictures (#4, #5, #6, #7 and #8) where I used the flash unit attached in camera hot shoe, the camera exposure compensation and the flash exposure compensation are cumulative. This is true only with the Nikon camera. But if you are using Canon body, they both are separate entity and they both work entirely separately without affecting one another. Again, in Canon camera body, the camera exposure compensation controls the ambient light and the flash exposure compensation control the flash output power separately to control the overall exposure.

Conclusion:

If you are shooting with a Nikon camera body using an external flash unit (mainly in a Manual mode) and trying to balance the exposure, never use the exposure compensation but rather use the Shutter speed and an Aperture to balance the ambient light and use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) to balance the flash output power to your main subject.

But if you are using Canon camera body, you can use them independently to balance the ambient light and the flash output to control the overall exposure.